Monday, May 15, 2006

Plastic teeth

A week ago our medical team was chased away from the village near the coast. Angry, dangerous looking men threatened us with spears and bows and arrows.

Later when tempers had calmed some of the team carefully approached the village again.
The villagers were angry and frightened because they thought we were a family planning team entering their compound. In 1985 some of our Kenyan people believed that family planning teams would kill or steal babies and small children. Many men didn’t want to use birth control anyway. They liked to have several wives and wanted plenty of children to look after them in their old age.
When we explained that we were a medical research team, not a family planning clinic, the village leaders agreed to listen to what the team leaders had to say and arrangements were made to return the next day with the full team.

The following morning, early, before the sun was too hot, the truck was loaded up with specimen pots, blood taking equipment, weighing scales, height measuring stadiometers, medicines, examination couches and all the other gear for the clinic. The doctors from England, the enthusiastic paediatrician, the fierce parasitologist, the trim nutritionist, and the African technicians and nurses all piled in. We crossed the Kilifi river on the trusty old ferry, bought freshly roasted cashew nuts from the riverside vendors, and the long drive up the coast road began.

This time when we arrived in the village although the reception wasn’t exactly friendly we were not threatened. The day was hot and dry and the drive had been dusty. After we drank some coconut water the white paediatrician stood up under a large shady mango tree. The elders, men and women, sat quietly in a group on the ground under another tree at a safe distance of ten or fifteen yards. An excited group of younger women sat separately. A few older children played around the mud and wattle houses but the young children and babies were kept safely out of the way.
The white doctor speaking in very bad Swahili went through the ritual he had learned. Jambo. Habari. Salamat. The elders nodded.
Then through the lips of the interpreter he said that we wanted to help the people by finding out more about malaria, schistosomiasis and the other diseases that affected them and we hoped to find better treatments and vaccines. But first we needed to know more about which diseases were the main problems in the area and so we needed to examine the people and take specimens of blood, urine and faeces. He said we would see any sick people in the village and give them treatment.

After some heated discussion amongst the elders the big man of the village stood up to speak and the interpreter translated for the foreigners. Politely he welcomed the team to the village and apologised for the previous day’s attack. He said that the elders were interested in what the doctor had said but that there had been no mention of their main health problem which was that many of their babies were born with plastic teeth. The village people were very worried about this. The government was doing nothing about it and the local medicine men were removing plastic teeth from most of the babies in the area. This was done in the early months otherwise the babies became sick at around six months of age with diarrhoea and vomiting and many died. The villagers wanted to know why this was happening and what could be done to prevent the problem.

The foreign doctor was puzzled but we local health workers of course knew that village doctors were removing milk or deciduous teeth from under the babies’ gums saying they were plastic teeth. We thought this belief had started some years earlier in Uganda and had spread. People did not understand that it was normal for babies to have unerupted teeth under the gums. They believed that infant teeth started to grow only at the time they appeared through the gums.
Many babies had severe infections or bleeding after the operation and some died.
Of course the real explanation for the many babies who died at about six months of age was gastroenteritis caused by bottle feeding which was often introduced at that age. The foreign doctors and we African health workers said these teeth were normal and not the cause of the babies’ illnesses but the villagers of course didn’t believe us.

Three days later I was walking along the village road in the morning with my baby Margaret, feeling very scared. The rest of the team drove past and when they saw me they stopped the truck and said “Hey Nurse Elizabeth where are you going with your baby?” I was ashamed and didn’t tell them where I was going. But I could tell they knew. Well of course we all knew that the plastic teeth epidemic was based on a myth. We health workers taught that all the time. But I knew that most of the team had had their babies’ teeth removed to be on the safe side, just in case the medicine men were right. I was terrified that my baby would get sick after the operation. But what else could I do? I couldn’t afford to take any chances. If she died at six months and I hadn’t had those teeth removed, I could never have forgiven myself.

Wednesday, May 03, 2006

Happy new year

Happy New Year.
The first of January 1973. New year’s day and I woke with a feeling of keen anticipation. Every day I was learning new and fascinating aspects of the unique environment I was living in and I looked forward to a new year of discovery.
I had the day off work so thought “let’s go for a picnic.” Five degrees south of the equator there is no contradiction in a picnic on new year’s day.

I was twenty six years old and was revelling in what was happening to me. Only six weeks earlier I had arrived in the large open sided hangar which was Port Moresby’s airport and encountered sounds, smells and sights which were completely unfamiliar to me.

Papua New Guinea. I towered above the lively excited crowd, many of whom wore traditional dress. Women carried their babies and their loads on their backs in string bags called bilums, suspended from their head by a long carrying strap. Men and women had bright red mouths stained by chewing betel nuts with white lime powder and mustard sticks. People shouted excitedly in Motu and in Pidgin - Balus i kam pinis long Australia - The plane has arrived from Australia. Short, stocky Melanesian highlanders dressed with leaves over their backsides known as arse grass and carrying their umbrellas, looked uneasy in this modern environment. There were tall, blue black Bukus from Bougainville and elegant Polynesian islanders with red hibiscus flowers in their hair. There were beautiful people from New Britain with their fair skin and blonde hair and graceful Papuans from Hanuabada. There were groups of Australian expatriate businessmen and public servants in shorts and long socks meeting colleagues and families from Brisbane. A uniquely vibrant arrival hall.

I was working in Port Moresby Hospital as a paediatric registrar under the inspirational guidance of Dr John Biddulph.

My learning curve was a vertical straight line. In six weeks I had looked after children with malaria in all it’s manifestations like cerebral malaria and blackwater fever, I had treated children with all kinds of complex problems, both peculiarly tropical and those found in temperate climates too.
I had learned the crucial importance for babies of breast feeding and the disaster that bottle feeding can be in unhygenic circumstances.
I had learned to communicate in basic Motu and Pidgin English but as there were more than seven hundred languages in the country there were patients who could communicate with no one in the hospital. I had learned that other people may have a very different perception from mine, that a nurse from one tribe may not always have the best interests at heart for a patient from an enemy tribe. I had found that many people believed that all illness was caused by poisoning by enemies or by angry spirits.
Coastal people would be miserable if they didn’t have sago to eat whereas highlanders must have their sweet potatoes. I knew how to treat snake bites, stone fish stings, arrow wounds, spear wounds, pig tusk injuries and shark bites. I knew the signs that a witchdoctor had previously treated the patient. I had learned to accept that a patient from out of town would have several guardians sleeping under the bed or in the hospital grounds.

Papua New Guinea was largely unknown territory at that time - that is unknown to Europeans. A million highlanders had been “discovered” by westerners only forty years earlier. Many areas had not yet been explored by Europeans. Cannabalism and headhunting were probably still practised in remote areas but Port Moresby the capital was developing. Driving through the town to the hospital I was moved by the beauty of the turquoise blue Coral Sea, the white coral sand beaches, the colourful people. But there were squatter settlements, and poverty and serious crime was already becoming a problem.
I had been warned that although most of the people were friendly and peaceful there were rascals who would rob and rape and that one needed to be careful about where one went and how one behaved.

My young wife, Jacquie, had arrived from England to this amazing place only a few days before Christmas. I suggested a drive and a picnic on my day off in my newly acquired but battered and well travelled Holden estate. There were few roads but I had been told that Brown River was a good picnic spot about twenty miles away. As we drove through the steaming tropical jungle along a dirt road we met the sounds of parrots and strange tropical birds. Huge cassowaries the size of ostriches strutted their stuff. We passed small traditional thatch villages where friendly people waved and offered drinks of coconut water. We felt excited interest and slight nervous tension in this foreign environment.

After driving for an hour or so through this stunning tropical newness we knew we must be approaching Brown River. Rounding a bend in the road there was a slight descent and the wide muddy river was in sight. There were still a few hundred yards to drive when we became aware of a blood curdling yodelling sound of many voices. Then running up the road towards us from the river was an approaching army of a hundred armed warriors, their bodies smeared in mud from the river. They carried spears and axes and bottles of beer. They were fast approaching and my heart was fast sinking. We were vulnerable in this tropical jungle and were about to be massacred by a warparty of cannabalistic headhunters. We hadn’t seen another car or another westerner since we left the capital. There was no help. I reversed the car with my right foot flat on the floor, desperately looking for somewhere to turn so we could escape.

But it was too late, the crazed war party was upon us. We were surrounded. They were shouting and screaming war chants and waving their weapons threateningly. Their eyes were glazed and bloodshot from the combined effects of alcohol and betel nut. They were smearing the car and the windows in mud, completely blotting the view through the windscreen. They were banging on the metal with their fists and shouting all the time. We were totally at their mercy.
Intense fear was now another new experience to cap all the others I had encountered in recent weeks.

But no windows were smashed with those axes. The car wasn’t being damaged, only smeared. Some of the men were smiling and laughing.

Suddenly it dawned on me.
Perhaps - this wasn’t quite as bad as I had feared.
The words they were shouting.
Happy new year! Happy new year!

Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Jazz evening in Winster. Friday 5th May 2006

Friday 5th May 2006. Jazz Evening in Winster. £5. Enquiries Gill Geddes 01629 650364
Burton Institute, West Bank, Winster, Derbyshire. 8pm to about 11pm.
Steve Salfield’s Four Beats in the Bar - Steve on sax, Chris Bennett on keyboard, Geoff Pearson double bass, Paul Tozer drums.
Should be some exciting music..
Nibbles included but bring own booze.
I hope that this evening gig will be at least as enjoyable and well attended as the successful Winster Jazz Brunches.
Please come along

I got to get my boat out of the water

Steve Salfield
“President” says my friend, “I got to get my boat out of the water”. We look out over the clear blue water beyond the coral reef where his colourfully painted pride and joy, his livelihood, bobs at anchor. “I have to get it up the hill to my mother’s house so it will be safe when I flash over to Germany to visit my sweetheart.”

The young Rasta tells me in his cool and inimitable patter “I goin’ to get some strong guys, and give them four crates of beer and plenty ganja. When they all fired up they going to carry the boat up the hill and they won’t mash up the bottom of the boat”.

I am lying on the soft Caribbean sand in the heat of the day chatting with the young local man who is about the same age as my son. He sits beside me, his fisherman muscles relaxed and his dreadlocks decorated with coloured beads are looking fine.
I’m a little drowsy and vague but gradually it dawns on me that this seems like folly. “Hang on Captain” I say slowly and thoughtfully, (everyone has a nickname in these parts), “Hang on Captain, I have a different idea”.

It seems obvious doesn’t it, to you and me, Europeans, that this won’t work? We need to get the work done first and then give the guys their reward. They will need an incentive to lift that heavy boat won’t they?

So I laugh and say to my friend “Captain, your idea won’t work. The guys will drink the beer and smoke the ganja and then they won’t want to carry the boat. Or if they do it, they will be feeling lazy and will mash up the bottom of the boat. Why not tell them that they will get the stuff at the top of the hill when the job is done? That way they will want to do it so they can get the beer and the ganja.”

“President, the guys will just get mad if you don’t give them something first. They won’t carry the boat. No Man! I have to get them all fired up first. Then they will be happy and will feel strong. You cannot buy these guys, they will just get crazy if they can’t have the beer and ganja till after. But if you make them feel good they will do anything to help you”.

I lie and ponder lazily in the tropical heat. Yes, I think he is right. The task will be more enjoyable his way. But would my people give their help if they felt happy and grateful or would they always need a carrot or a stick? Have I hit on a major cultural difference between our two peoples? I decide that they would do it too. But perhaps I have forgotten about people’s good nature and willingness to help and have become conditioned to assume that incentives and payment are the prime motivations if not the only ones for which people will work.
I learned a good Caribbean lesson.

Saturday, January 07, 2006

Divine retribution

CNN) -- Television evangelist Pat Robertson suggested Thursday that Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon's stroke was divine retribution for the Israeli withdrawal from Gaza, which Robertson opposed.

Friday, January 06, 2006

Steve's gigs

Steve Salfield's Two Beats in the Bar will be playing jazz at The Strand in Matlock on Friday January 13th so come if you aren't superstitious. Also come if you are so you keep out of harms way. Lovely restaurant. Booking advisable. Steve will be playing with Chris Bennett - excellent jazz pianist.
So hope to see you there.

Sibelius

Brilliant program

Thursday, January 05, 2006

Band in a Box

Band in a Box is great too. I use it as a playalong for practising the sax.

Sibelius

I am just getting started learning how to use Sibelius software for composing music. It's an extremely comprehensive and excellent program but I need a course to get to grips with it properly.

Monday, December 26, 2005

Winster


Winster is a beautiful small village in Derbyshire.
Amongst the traditions which the local people sustain is the Winster Guisers. They perform a traditional Mummer's Play in the pubs around the area just before Christmas each year.
Winster Wakes in the first weekend of July is a traditional English summer carnival.

Tobago


One of the least spoiled islands in the Carribbean.
Stay in The White House, Charlotteville .
An excellent website for all information about
  • Tobago
  • .
  • Steve's gigs

    Steve will be playing jazz at The Strand in Matlock on Wednesday Dec 28th with Matt Ratcliffe and Dave Berris. Lovely restaurant. Booking advisable.